Explore the City of Dublin like Never Before 10 MustSee Sites for the Relaxed Traveler
No matter how many times I visit, Dublin never fails to surprise me. In every building, on every corner and in every street there’s an intriguing story to be told. And who better to regale you with tales of the city’s gems than the friendly people of Dublin themselves?
Take Dublin Castle. “It looks 18th-century, but don’t be fooled, ” said my new friend Frank, pointing to the remains of a Viking fortress in the medieval undercroft. He also led me to the castle’s wonderful Dubh Linn Gardens where ancient Celtic designs are laced into their lawns.
I’d first bumped into Frank in a little chemist’s shop – the last place I expected to make a new friend or, as it turned out, to find literary inspiration. But this was Sweny’s, the Victorian pharmacy immortalised when Leopold Bloom, hero of James Joyce’s Ulysses, bought lemon soap here. Now run by a charity, it holds daily Joyce readings in which all-comers can take part.
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That’s one of the great thing about Dublin. It isn’t just for onlookers. Wherever you go and whatever you do, you’ll be invited to join in.
I’d always wanted to see the Book of Kells, the ninth-century gospels manuscript, so I went to cobble-courted Trinity College where it is housed. Its displayed pages are changed regularly. To me, though, the 200ft Long Room in The Old Library was almost as impressive as the book itself, with its barrel-vaulted ceiling and rows of noble marble busts.
Dublin’s museums alone would justify a trip to the city. The National Gallery’s fine collection includes a Caravaggio while the Hugh Lane Gallery has recreated the chaos of Francis Bacon’s studio.
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But for a real feel of Dublin in the 20th century, I headed for the Little Museum of Dublin where every exhibit has a special story behind it.
Known as “the people’s museum”, the collection includes photography, toys and other items, all donated by the people of Dublin. As the curator showed me these personal treasures, I felt part of the fabric of Ireland rather than just a casual observer. Their stories brought real animation to the city’s near past.
And it’s not just in the city that you will find experiences in which to immerse yourself. Right on Dublin’s doorstep are the charming, colourful villages of Dublin Bay. I hopped on a train for the short ride to Howth. It’s a steep-sided fishing village built around a beautiful harbour with great views across the coast.
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When it comes to fresh seafood, this is the place. In the Oar House Restaurant on the West Pier, the only hold-up was waiting for the boat to come in with the catch of the day. “We can give you a taste of 50 shades of ray, ” joked the waiter as he presented me with a freshly caught mixed grill of ray wing, sea bass, mackerel and prawns. Delicious.
At the other end of the bay, I visited the village of Dalkey whose famous residents include Bono and Van Morrison. In Finnegan’s pub, I made more new friends, Donal and Deirdre, who took me to see a performance by Living History actors who brought the 16th century into the “now” with their stories and demonstrations.
If you want to explore a little further beyond Dublin, I would recommend the Wicklow Mountains. Draped in a glorious carpet of heather, “There is not in the wide world a valley so sweet, ” as my favourite Irish poet, Thomas Moore, wrote.
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I headed to the Powerscourt Estate, a medieval castle turned luxurious mansion overlooking the Great Sugar Loaf mountain. It has an intriguing story having been destroyed by fire in the Seventies, then lovingly restored, and now ranks among the world’s top 10 houses. It also boasts one of the world’s top 10 gardens (according to National Geographic). Its sweeping terraces, ornamental lakes and secret hollows provided a haven of tranquillity.
And at Ireland’s highest waterfall – almost 400ft – I sat back and became immersed in the moment as I watched it cascade into the sparkling River Dargle. Powerscourt is one of the highlights of the Kildare Wicklow Grand Tour that you can follow, a sweeping, 200-mile drive from Co Wicklow to Co Kildare, taking in some of Ireland’s finest sights and all within easy reach of Dublin.
The Irish National Stud and Japanese Gardens in Tully offer a unique experience. In the Horse Museum I paid homage to Arkle, three times winner of the Cheltenham Gold Cup. And the magnificent Japanese Gardens, considered the best in Europe, provided a place for quiet contemplation.
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Another standout was Glendalough, a sixth-century monastic settlement idyllically sited beside twin lakes, with a pencil-thin, 100ft tower stark against the peaks like a Celtic campanile.
Just 40 minutes north of the capital is an even older spiritual experience. Bru na Boinne (part of the Boyne Valley drive) is a Unesco World Heritage Site with three spine-tingling Neolithic tombs, pre-dating the Pyramids.
When I left Dublin, I felt I had really been immersed in the history, culture and spirituality of the place – thanks in part to new friends I made along the way. I can’t wait to return.A small capital with a huge reputation, Dublin is a multicultural, artistic city brimming with incredible architecture, beautiful green spaces and great opportunities for entertainment.
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While traces of Ireland's Viking past have been largely washed away, the city is a living museum of its history since then, with medieval castles and cathedrals on display alongside the architectural splendors of its 18th-century heyday. As an added bonus, Dubliners are the greatest hosts of all, a charismatic bunch with compelling soul and sociability.
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Temple Bar, one of Dublin's most famous areas, was burdened for years with a reputation for drunken debauchery and not much else. Visit these days and you'll find a fun neighborhood with plenty to occupy your days as well as your nights. Its excellent, quirky boutiques appeal to fashionistas who head to Siopaella and Folkster for some unusual threads.
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To indulge your cultural side, explore the fantastic street murals of the Icon Walk, or see a performance at the Project Arts Centre. Drinking in Temple Bar can be more expensive than other areas, but unusual venues like the Vintage Cocktail Club or a great pub like the Palace Bar are worth your time and money.
Planning tip: This area is also a haven for great food, both local and international. Temple Bar Food Market runs every Saturday and it’s easy to while away an hour or two there, sampling the delights.
Be stunned by the beauty of the Long Room of the Old Library at Trinity College © Lukas Bischoff / Getty Images
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Located in the heart of Dublin, Trinity College is Ireland's most prestigious university and well worth a visit. Founded in 1592, it's the alma mater of writers like Swift, Wilde and Beckett, and its 16 hectares are an oasis of aesthetic elegance. The biggest draw is the barrel-vaulted Long Room in the Old Library. It’s the home of one of Ireland's greatest cultural treasures, the Book of Kells, the beautifully-illuminated Gospel manuscript that dates back to the 9th century.
Planning tip: Other attractions include the neo-Gothic Museum Building, home to the Zoological Museum (a top place to visit if you're traveling with kids), and the nature-friendly wildflower meadows that make for a delightful place to wander.
Visitors interested in learning the story of Ireland's emigrants should put EPIC the Irish Emigration Museum on their to-do list. This interactive high-tech museum explores emigration and its effect on Ireland and the 70 million or so people spread throughout the world who claim Irish ancestry. It was named Europe's Leading Tourist Attraction at the World Travel Awards in 2019, 2020 and 2021.
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Highlights include the music section, where you can put your feet to work following the steps of the world-famous Riverdance, and the Rogues’ Gallery, where you can practise your quick-draw with a motion detector Irish outlaws quiz. For those interested in tracing their ancestry, there are professional genealogy service partners at the Irish Family History Centre.
The most popular attraction in Dublin is the multimedia homage to Guinness, the Guinness Storehouse, one of the world’s most famous beer brands. An old fermentation plant in the St James's Gate Brewery has been converted into the seven-storey Storehouse, devoted to sharing the company’s history and showcasing how the beer is made.
The top-floor Gravity Bar offers panoramic views of Dublin city. You can test your pouring power and drink a pint here, and maybe stick around for lunch at the excellent restaurant on the floor below.
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Planning tip: The Storehouse offers a range of experiences, including the Behind-the-Gate tour, which brings visitors to parts of St James's Gate that were previously off-limits to the public.
If you're looking for a walking tour with a difference, Talking Statues Dublin is a very entertaining way to explore the city while listening to its story. There are plaques at 10 of Dublin's most famous statues with QR codes that you scan with your
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